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All areas codes are (843)

Aaron's Deli
215 Market St.
723-6000
overview: Open seven days 11AM-9:30PM
no reservations
credit cards accepted
parking garage adjacent
smoking permitted
liquor served
handicap accessible

Aaron's, which used to be a New York deli, now serves seafood from Hyman's, the company that owns them.

Alice's Fine Foods
470 King
853-9366
overview: Open Mon-Thurs. 11-6, Fri-Sat.11-9, Sun. 12-6
no reservations
credit cards accepted
street parking
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $6.75-$12.95

Don't look for Alice's in the tourist information; even Charlestonians say it's better not to walk there at night. Of course, Alice's closes early anyway. This is Low Country soul food served cafeteria-style with complimentary iced tea. Portraits of Alice and the family hang over the booths. Don't miss her deviled crab and stuffed shrimp. Of course, there are butter beans, okra, corn bread and cole slaw on the side. Remember this is the real thing, not Haute Low Country, so expect lard in the preparation.

Anson
12 Anson St.
577-0551
overview: Open dinner seven nights 5:30 onward
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
parking garage adjacent
smoking permitted
liquor served
handicap accessible
expensive

Sit by the romantic curved windows and watch the carriages roll by at Anson's, a sophisticated restaurant that combines Low Country tradition with elegance. Crab and crawfish cakes are handsomely presented with sweet pepper relish and barbecued grouper is accompanied with local spinach, whipped potatoes and pear chutney. Try a benne (sesame) seed basket with mocha fudge ice cream and strawberry coulis for a brilliant dessert.

The Bookstore Cafe
412 King St., corner of Hutson
720-8843
overview: open seven days, breakfast and lunch
no reservations
credit cards accepted
street parking, public garage 1 block away
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $3.25-$7.95

The only books here are on the wallpaper or across the street in the library, but this is definitely the place for a Low Country brunch. Try their extra-large and rich sweet potato biscuits, Keith's Special eggs on fried green tomatoes with country ham gravy, or grits and shrimp in a creamy tomato sauce. Or choose a Kiawah, a substantial potato casserole with cheese, vegetables and sausage gravy, or other combinations named after the beachy Barrier Islands off Charleston. Not a place to diet, the Bookstore Cafe has the cheery atmosphere of a local hangout.

Carolina's
10 Exchange St.
724-3800
overview: open for dinner from 5:30 nightly
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
street parking
no pipes or cigars permitted
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $7.25-$21.95

Carolina's is lively and elegant; a place for special ocassion, if not a trifle noisy. The menu is ambitious and varied, there are many nightly specials and several good wines are available by the glass. Black-eyed pea cakes were never so elegant with avocado salsa, and wontons with lime-ginger sauce are a delicious way to serve Charleston's famous shrimp and crabmeat. The pecan-crusted quail was delicate as the Charleston seafood pot (rather like bouillabaisse) was hearty. Carolina's version of a popular local dessert is a spectacular praline basket filled with vanilla ice cream and surrounded with raspberry sauce. Take home Carolina's Joe Mike condiments as souvenirs.

Celia's Porta Via
49 Archdale St.
722-9003
overview: open seven days lunch 11:30-2:30, dinner 5:30-10, Fri-Sat until 11
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
parking available
no cigars or pipes permitted
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $5.50-$14.25

Italian arias greet diners upon entering Celia's. Decorated in sedate green and brick, the dining room is beyond the tempting deli cases where picnickers can also assemble a feast from Celia's house-made bread, pasta and mozzarella. Grilled vegetables and individual tomato quiches round out the selection. Other classics such as lasagna, risotto milanese and pasta putanesca are nicely done as well.

Gaulart and Maliclet
98 Broad St.
577-9797
overview: open for breakfast all day, lunch all day from 11AM, dinner
from 6PM
reservations not necessary
credit cards over $10 only
street parking
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $6.75-$12.25

"Fast and French" is the motto of this clever cafe, popular with the crowds that fill up Charleston during the Spoleto USA Arts Festival every year. This is the perfect place to stop for a little something in an artsy atmosphere: delicious combinations on baguette or croissants, variations on the croque monsieur, snacks called the 4 o'clock (goat cheese and black olives) or the 10 o'clock (smoked salmon and cream cheese), fondue specials on Thursday nights and nightly specials too, that range from beef Bonaparte to seafood wasabi. Also open for breakfast, Gaulart and Maliclet serves excellent coffee, French pastries and fresh fruit plates.

Hyman's Seafood Company
215 Meeting St.
723-6000
overview: open Mon-Thurs. 8AM -11, Fri-Sun. 7AM -11
no reservations
credit cards accepted
parking garage adjacent
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $5.95-$13.95

If you don't follow Hyman's advice to " arrive early to avoid wait," just enjoy the almost constant line on the sidewalk that moves quickly to the airy upstairs dining room, overlooking Meeting Street. This boisterous, family-style Charleston institution, run by a third generation of Hyman's, offers at least 15 daily fresh fish choices as well as a long list of shellfish. This is the place for a combo platter of deviled crab, steamed shrimp and Cajun sauteed fish, heaped with coleslaw, red rice or grits and hush puppies. Kids will love the action, the undistinguished but plentiful meals, the huge selection of souvenir t-shirts and the little plaques on each table that tell which celebrity has eaten at each table.

Jestine's Kitchen
251 Meeting St.
722-7224
overview: open 11-9 Tue-Sun. "Lunch, dinner, supper? Whatever
you call it, we serve it all
day."
no reservations
credit cards accepted
street parking
no smoking
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $3.95-$10.75

Recommended by a native as a place to eat authentically, Jestine's didn't disappoint. The warm, luncheonette atmosphere honors Jestine, the traditional Low Country cook of the owner's family. Enjoy huge iced teas, cornbread by the piece or the basket, ten different "fresh and soulful" veggies for a Green Plate Special as well as daily Blue Plate Specials such as Country Fried Steak and Shrimp Creole. The crab cakes were a little bready but the fried oyster po'boy was perfect, served with fresh tomato on a crisp piece of baguette.The ubiquitous pecan pie was light with an excellent crust.

Krispy Kreme Donuts
Rt. 17 Savannah Highway
747-6411
overview: open Sun. 8AM-11PM. Mon.-Sat. 6AM -11PM
no reservations
no credit cards
parking lot
smoking permitted
no liquor
handicap accessible
$.45-$.55
no bathroom or phone

Turquoise counter, Jetson detailing, a woman behind the counter who's been there 31 years, regulars on the turning stools: this is the home of the famous Southern-style donuts that have recently taken Manhattan by storm. They are puffy, raised sweets, creme-filled, cinnamon or iced. The take-out coffee cups show Starbuck's influence, but generally the t-shirts are better than the products. Worth a visit for the time-warp feeling of the place.

The Library at the Vendue
23 Vendue Range
723-0485
overview: open Mon.-Sat. lunch 11:30-2:30, Mon.-Thurs. dinner
6-9:30, Fri.-Sat. 5:30-10
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
street parking
no smoking
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $11.95-$19.95

This restaurant, made up of several intimate dining rooms, is attached to an elegant inn housed in a renovated 1865 warehouse and steps from Charleston's historic waterfront park, the Battery. Diners will have exceptional views of the city and the sea from the rooftop garden. The Library offers delicious favorites such as Low Country oyster fritters or she-crab soup as well as updated dishes such as Dr. Orvin's pecan-crusted salmon over a sweet potato cake. The house speciality is an intriguing "combination of beef and mixed seafood in puff pastry with individual sauces."

Magnolias
185 E.Bay
577-7771
overview: open lunch, dinner, late night
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
parking weekdays after 6, and on weekends
smoking permitted in the bar
liquor served
difficult handicap access
entrees: $6.95-$23.00

Magnolias' cool white interior, which offers a private dining room for up to 140 guests, is definitely "Uptown Down South" cuisine. Chef Dan Barickman will even autograph his Magnolias Southern Cuisine Cookbook for you. Try coriander-seared tuna or crab cakes, or grilled rack of lamb or "double cut" smoked pork loin chops from the meat entrees. All entrees are served with interesting variations on Southern classics such as local greens, buttermilk mashed potatoes, gumbo, or pan-fried potato cake. Try also skillet-seared grits cake, Cajun clam chowder or poached eggs with White Lily cream biscuits for smaller, if not lighter, meals.

Mickey's on the Market
137 Market St.
723-7121
overview: open seven days, 24 hours
no reservations
credit cards accepted
street parking
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $2.35-$8.85

This splashy black, white and red diner-style restaurant is open 24 hours, serves big Southern breakfasts all day and will prepare the whole menu to go. Mickey's sandwiches are served with soup, salad or fries. Try Big Duke's Chicken Pita or Schizophrenic Riley, a reuben with smoked turkey on marbled rye. There are the requisite floats, shakes and malts and kids have seven choices all their own for $.99 each.

Middleton Place Restaurant
Middleton Place Plantation, Ashley River Rd. (Hwy. 61)
556-6020
overview: open for lunch 1-3, dessert 3-5, dinner 6-9 Sat.-Sun. only
reservations for dinner
credit cards accepted
parking lot
smoking permitted
liquor served
no handicap access
entrees: $14.95-$17.95

Make this visit for the setting, not the cuisine. Stroll through the gardens and plantation grounds first, watch the moon rise over the curve of the river and dine on the enclosed porch with a view of both. Although the service is gracious, the menu only appears authentic. Salty spoon bread, bony, dry quail and gumbo with a canned soup base are not worthy of Edna Lewis, who consulted here. Maybe lunch or teatime would be more suitable if it weren't for the charm of seeing it all at dusk.

The Peninsula Grill
112 North Market
723-0700
overview: open for lunch and dinner
reservations suggested
credit cars accepted
parking garage adjacent
smoking permitted in the bar
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $16.00-$27.00

On a recent visit, the Peninsula Grill was the hot new restaurant in town: a high-style clubby bar, an interior courtyard and elegant, contemporary decor; a little piece of LA or New York in the Carolinas.The menu combines trend and tradition in dishes such as wild mushroom grits, greens with ham and raisins and the sumptuous seafood one expects here. Enjoy raw bar shellfish selections accompanied by designer cocktails like a citron lobster martini or bubbly from the champagne bar. The rest of the wine list is impressive too.

Pinckney Cafe and Espresso
Pinckney St. and Motley La.
577-0961
overview: open for lunch 11:30-3; dinner 6-10, closed Sun. and Mon.
reservations accepted for large groups only
no credit cards
street parking
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
no handicap access
moderate prices

This funky cafe in a home one block from the market is popular with locals as well as with the artists and audiences of Charleston's yearly Spoleto USA Arts Festival. From the porch, you can watch the carriage horses roll into the brick stables just north of the market. Choose Southern specialties such as shrimp and grits or cool off inside with iced tea and a homemade dessert.

The Pusser's Landing at the City Marina
17 Lockwood Dr.
853-1000
overview: open Sun-Wed 11-10, Thurs-Sat. 11-11
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
validated parking
smoking permitted; cigar lounge
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $8.95-$18.95

A little farther from downtown at the City Marina, the view of the sailboats from a table by the water is worth the trip. You'll never notice a few mosquitoes and the slightly slower outside service. Pusser's makes such a production of its beers and rum drinks, they have a separate menu for them, a newspaper about them and even souvenir mugs extolling them! Pusser's Painkiller combines rum with citrus, coconut and nutmeg; Pusser's Royale tops Grand Marinier with cream and nutmeg. Despite the large, comfortable bar, the bright dining room decorated with ship models and curious nautical antiques makes Pusser's Landing a good family choice. Along with Low Country fare, such as the large steampot of seafood to share, there are classic sandwiches and Caribbean dishes, such as chicken roti, conch fritters and key lime pie.

82 Queen
82 Queen St.
723-7591
overview: open Fri-Sat. lunch 11:30-2:30, dinner 6-10,
Sun. brunch from 11:30
reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
parking garage across the street
smoking permitted
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $15.95-$20.95

82 Queen kept coming up as the place in Charleston to enjoy Low Country specialities transformed by an upscale atmosphere. The seven dining rooms contained in two townhouses include a formal English front sitting room and a garden patio. The house salad inventively combines pickled shrimp, okra bacon, brie and tomatoes. Roasted quail or grilled chicken with tasso (a local ham) are two among many attractive entrees. In keeping with the tradition, you can also sample lightly fried oysters, she-crab soup or crab cakes.

Sermet
276 King St.
overview: open Sun-Thurs. 11-10, Fri-Sat. 11-11
dinner reservations suggested
credit cards accepted
street parking
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $6.50-$15.25

Located in the humming shopping district of King Street, Sermet is an oasis of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food. Diners can sit in a corner window watching the shoppers. The menu reflects the Turkish-Italian heritage of the restaurant's owner with choices such as rosemary grilled chicken served over apricot, almond and bulgur salad, grilled portabello panini with sundried tomatoes, basil and gorgonzola and falafel with onion, cucumber and mint. Try Sermet's poached pear and gorgonzola salad or shaved roasted leg of lamb with cracked olive spread when you are tired of grits and shrimp. There is also a thoughtful childrens' menu.

Slightly North of Broad
192 East Bay
723-3424
overview: open Mon-Fri. 11:30-3:00, Mon-Sun. dinner from 5:30,
no lunch weekends
reservations suggested for 6 or more
credit cards accepted
street parking
no smoking
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $7.50-$19.95

Slightly North of Broad offers stylish coastal cuisine. Its restful, large-windowed interior is popular with the stars of the yearly Spoleto USA Arts Festival. Try corn cakes with caviar or pad Thai with Dixie clams for a taste of Southern Fusion. Blue crab, fried oysters and fried green tomatoes are delicious while Slightly North's own Maverick Shrimp with grits bucks tradition just enough.

Southend Brewery and Smokehouse
161 East Bay St.
853-HOPS
overview: open for lunch and dinner seven days, bar open later
reservations accepted for large parties
credit card accepted
street parking
smoking permitted
liquor served
handicap accessible
entrees: $7.75-$17.95

First decide where you're going when you enter this micro-brew pub. Either the first floor for the drama of the smokehouse and open kitchen, the second floor for a clearer view of the brewing process, or take the elevator to the third floor for pool, a view of the harbor and the cigar lounge. When you're settled, order a thirst-quenching Carolina Blonde or heartier Friar Tuck's Oatmeal Stout. In addition to the delicious house-smoked barbecued ribs, chicken and brisket, the boisterous Southend Brewery offers the expected: nachos and burgers, and the unexpected: wood-oven pizza and apple cobbler and other grilled meats. Maybe a half-rack will leave you room for the elaborate desserts, or go whole hog and just buy an extra-large Southend Brewery golf shirt to take home.

Sticky Fingers
235 Meeting St. (2 other suburban locations)
853-RIBS
overview: open Sun-Thurs.11-10, Fri-Sat. until 10:30
reservations not necessary
credit cards accepted
street parking, nearby garage
smoking permitted
beer and wine served
handicap accessible
entrees: $6.99-$23.99

A good choice for families, Sticky Fingers offers six styles of barbecued pork and beef ribs from Carolina Sweet to Texas Dry Style as well as 50 beers to wash them down. You can even take home a bottle of their sauce. The menu also includes predictable accompaniments like potato skins, Caesar salad and onion rings.

The Wreck -- the Richard and Charlene
Mt. Pleasant docks -- Hadrell Point
884-0052
overview: open dinner only
no reservations
no credit cards
no cell phone use in the dining area
parking lot
beer and wine served
difficult handicap access
entrees: $11.81-$18.52
email: thewreck@charleston.net
fax: (843) 856-6449

The New York Times, Gourmet, and even a Japanese newspaper have made their way to Richard and Charlene's Wreck. This isn't easy with no sign on the door, but when you find it, you can watch your shrimp being unloaded from the boats from your plastic chairs and folding tables. Deviled crab, fried oysters or fish couldn't be fresher. Circle your choices on the menu -- Richard's or Charlenes' portion sizes -- and enjoy the hush puppies, red rice and homemade coleslaw. There are also stone crab claws, fish stew and steak "for the landlubber." Skip the bread pudding desserts; you'll be too full anyway. A rare remaining seafood-in-the-rough -- well-worth the search.

Judy Hausman is a freelance food and travel writer who resides in New York.