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558 Sacramento St (between Sansome and Montgomery Sts).
San Francisco, CA 94107 (415) 434-4100
Pluses: New York SoHo-look decor.
Minuses: Unpadded chairs can be a pain.
Don't Miss: Steamed filet of bass; sharking beef or the lemongrass-prawn soup.
Prices: Low-Moderate; entrees $9-$16.50
Overview: Open Monday-Friday lunch and dinner; Saturday dinner only.
All major credit cards.
For some the dramatic, loftlike space, with earthquake-protection beams crisscrossing the oversize windows, white walls, and dark wood accents is very SoHo, for others it's cold. However, Dennis Leary is talented and his food is easy to warm to. Items can be ordered ∑ la carte, but there's always a fixed-price, three-course meal as well priced either $29 or $36. The menu changes often, but the French-inspired combinations are always sensible. For example, pan-roasted squab with parsnip puree; seared tuna with vegetable ragout; and roasted chicken with chantrelle mushrooms and pan stuffing. One nice starter is the crab ravioli; another is the lobster salad with lemon vinaigrette. Larry Stone, one of the country's few master sommeliers, has crafted a marvelous wine list deep in Bordeaux and Burgundies, plus hard to find old vintages from California.