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Fleur de Lys
777 Sutter St. (between Taylor and Jones Sts.)
San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 673-7779
Pluses: One of a handful of four star restaurants in San Francisco. Elegant, timeless decor, professional, yet friendly service. Always inventive French-kissed California-contemporary cuisine.
Don't Miss: almost anything, especially the lemongrass lobster soup.
Prices: Expensive, entrees $28.50-$36
Overview: Open for Dinner Monday-Thursday 6p.m.-9:30p.m. Friday-Saturday 5:30p.m.-10:30p.m.
All major credit cards
Small bar for before or after dinner drinks.
Stepping into this flowered-fabric tent that envelops this lovely dining room, is akin to being transported to a wonderful fantasy land. It's the perfect setting for the stunning French-Californian menu Hubert Keller creates. Keller, who worked his way up, preparing the classics in his native Alsace, and under Paul Bocuse and Roger Verge, has removed much of the butter and fat from his cuisine. In addition to the impressive ∑ la carte selections, he offers a four-course tasting menu beginning with a spectacular "Symphony of Fleur de Lys Appetizers" (which may include a crab cake, a sushi roll slice prepared with quinoa, and a slice of foie gras studded with pecans) and followed by an entr»e such as venison tournedos on braised endive; roasted lamb loin on ratatouile; or roasted sea bass enhanced with coconut, lemongrass. There's also an inventive, four-course vegetarian tasting menu that might feature a light cauliflower mousseline; handmade pasta with wild mushrooms and thyme; and braised celery hearts. Save room for the elegant and delicious desserts. The wine list is more French than Californian and a bit pricey. On a positive note, there are several half bottles of both French and California vintages.