Special Feature: Products Sally Recommends
200 Jackson St. (at Front St.) San Francisco
Pluses: Restful, elegant interior and delicious appetizers.
Minuses: Some entrees overcooked.
Price: Appetizers $7-$12; Entrees $14-$24
Overview: Hours:Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday
Greek food is the one cuisine that has been missing from the Bay Area. Ex-pat East coasters speak longingly of velvety moussaka, lamb cooked in all sorts of ways, pita with yogurt-caviar dips and stuffed grape leaves. All those wonderful dishes can be eaten at Kokkari, plus an appetizer of addictive fried smelts, whole grilled fish, rabbit stew and a gigantic lamb shank. The restaurant spans two dining rooms, the more formal fireplace room with floor lamps, over-stuffed chairs, a huge fireplace fronted by a table laden with urns full of luscious olives. Throughout weathered wood, ancient urns and tasteful fabrics create a comfortable and upscale environment. The second dining room is set back from the display kitchen and its most prominent feature is a family table that seats 14, just right for sampling all the appetizers. Don't miss the Greek coffee - very like Turkish coffee - and some honey ice cream for dessert. Soft classic Greek music plays in the background.