Cypress Club

500 Jackson St. (near Columbus),
San Francisco
(415) 296-8555

Cuisine: Contemporary

Pluses: Fanciful decor, very good food.

Minuses: At times can be very crowded.

Prices: Appetizers: $8-$11; Entrees: $20-$28

Overview: Su-Th 5:30-10pm; F-Sa 5:30-11pm

Jordan Mozer designed an interior that has been described as the Flintstones on acid, but to us it looks fanciful with large ginger jar columns, curving copper separators, plus custom-made 1930s style chairs, and curvy purple velvet banquettes. A whimsical cartooonish mural rings the room with scenes of California. The menu includes luxurious, well-prepared fare such as: A terrific tuna tartare spiced with a cilantro hollandaise, a bracing cauliflower bisque or a savory sweetbread tartlet. For vege-heads there's a lovely mushroom risotto with saut�ed broccoli rabe. An aged New York steak has melting caramelized onions and a ragout of yellow foot mushrooms. The roasted sturgeon comes with a delightful brandade of salt cod and perfumed with a white truffle nage. The new chef, Stephan Janke is the best Cunin has hired so far for Cypress. If you're not springing for dinner, have a drink at the bar, and have a snack - the ahi tuna is great - and observe the scene. Reservations recommended.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the businesses in question before making your plans.